When thinking of ongoing Palestinian protests, fashion is the last thing that might come to mind. However, when witnessing a Melbourne pro-Palestinian protest on the 15th of May at RMIT University, otherwise known as ‘Nakba day’, I noticed the colourful sea of Keffiyehs, dresses, pins and art that held its message.
When I search for ‘Palestinian fashion in protests,’ the main stories are focused on protests taking over fashion conventions. While the banners and signs held up catch the eye of attendees and the media, I’m more interested in how activists present themselves. The art and clothes worn by activists of the global pro-Palestinian movement are making an important statement—and not just a fashion one.
The conflict in Gaza has now killed over 36,000 Palestinian people after the initial attack from Hamas on Israel on October 7th 2023. The human crisis currently unfolding has unleashed global protests and demand for action through different types of activism.
Fashion is political. Historically, global protests have used fashion to express humanity, creativity, solidarity and identity. While there is no rule book on how one should dress, clothes have borne symbolism and political messages to reflect the movement.
During the civil rights movement in America between the 1950s-60s, African American people took to the streets, protesting the inequalities and segregation they were confined to. Clothes were used to combat the racial stereotypes inflicted on them. Protestors wore their “Sunday best”, to be treated with dignity and respect.
The pink “pussy hat” became a symbol of the 2017 Women’s March on Washington. The hat was a take on the sexist comments made by former US President Donald Trump about his beliefs on touching a woman's genitals. The Pussyhat project; “de-stigmatised the word ‘pussy’ and transformed it into one of empowerment.”
Fashion was used again in 2020 during the global Black Lives Matter protests after George Floyd's death. Apparels were worn with bold statements, such as “We Can’t Breathe.” Through protests, clothes and fashion send powerful messages of solidarity, even if they break the rules.
Aseel Tayah harnesses fashion and art through performance to showcase activism. She also uses protests to demonstrate her work, which embodies community and identity.
“I’m originally a visual artist, someone that uses performance and art to tell the story,” said Tayah.
Born in Jerusalem, The Palestinian-Melbourne-based artist immigrated to Australia in 2013. Through storytelling in performances she has acted and directed, such as ‘Bukja,’ she invites audiences to her homeland, immersing them in traditional clothes and music. She tells a story of not only culture but activism.
“Creating that space of sharing stories is kind of its activism through art and culture. It’s bringing the most beautiful songs and stories and art all of that in kind of a way to tell the story without using violence of any sort but still being heard. It’s bringing your identity and your passion into the art that doesn’t please, but challenges systems.”
Tayah first immigrated to Western Australia, a place where she said many people do not wear Hijabs or speak Arabic. For her first performance in Australia, she sang her national anthem wearing the Palestinian flag as a dress.
Wearing the flag as a statement, “felt fully me,” she said.
It was a way to tell the curious Australian community, “You have to accept the way I am, the way I look, the way I speak, the way I am passionate, the dreams I have and the tomorrow I want to create.”
She could express her culture and identity despite speaking little English when she first arrived.
The traditional embellishments, designs and colours displayed in the clothes that Asheel and the actors wear during their performances “always tell a story”, without being censored or silenced.
“Art is a beautiful tool. It’s the most beautiful tool to be and feel completely yourself, you know.”
From what I witnessed at the Nakba Day rally, people were using fashion pieces, along with chants and cries, to send powerful messages.
The keffiyeh is a popular clothing piece worn by many protestors and activists. The scarf comes in a variety of colours and patterns, when worn together, they represent unity. For Asheel, her keffiyehs are a deep connection with her homeland.
“As a Palestinian born and raised, I always saw my people wearing it. When they were throwing stones, while they were protesting, taking care of their land and being advocates for a very important cause,” she said urgently.
This became the inspiration for the big Keffiyeh and watermelon banner she designed and helped create with other Palestinian artists, activists, and school students. It was then showcased at the Melbourne protests, a statement that’s hard to miss.
“The fabrics from the Keffiyeh were a collaboration with artists who just stepped up, whom I didn’t even know or meet, and who said I want to be a part of what you are doing. So these volunteers and communities are waking up, and maybe they didn’t know anything about Palestine before the war on Gaza, but that’s the power of art in bringing people together. And the power of the rally is making their voice loud,” she smiled.
Wrapped around activists' shoulders, heads, and necks, the keffiyeh—a cotton scarf representing resistance and pride — is becoming a symbol of activism for Palestine.
At the RMIT encampment, all the students proudly display their individual Keffiyehs. Huddled over their workstations, answering emails and hosting teach-ins, draped around them is the piece that reflects their activism.
Holly Medlyn bought hers from the remaining Keffiyeh manufacturer in Palestine in 2021. She said she managed to squeeze in and buy one, as the item is now almost impossible to buy.
Keffiyeh Australia was backlogged with over 300,000 orders due to high demand and supply issues with the ongoing war.
“It was mainly to express my solidarity, publicly just wearing it while walking around. I wanted to make a statement of support because of how outraged I was about what was happening,” she said.
Pointing to her scarf, she then explained the significance of the deep red, brown and black colours as the embroidery stitches criss-crossed hold a meaning.
“This pattern here (she points to a line with balls surrounding it), represents the olive leaves. Olives are a traditional crop grown in Palestine and have been destroyed and burnt by Israel. The stripes on the outside represent the waterways and rivers through Palestine,” she explained.
For Molly, wearing the piece is “defiant”, representing solidarity within the community and encampment she is a part of.
But it’s not just students and activists who use clothes to harness their public support for Palestine. Celebrities are using their influence to speak about Palestine. Through fashion, more people are taking notice.
Bella Hadid wore a Keffiyeh-inspired dress at the Cannes festival. The dress was intended to be photographed and circulated over social media the next day. The attraction the piece gained was a way to spread awareness.
Last year at the Melbourne Cup, two protestors were pepper sprayed outside. However, inside Angelica Mesisca Barrientos used fashion to protest. Her statement dress that read, ‘Free Palestine’ and ‘Where is the humanity? Ceasefire Now!’ was a way to bring attention to the issue when words may be silenced.
It’s these powerful messages on clothes, apparel and art that can speak a thousand words.
The Australian Friends of Palestine Association (AFOPA) is a not-for-profit community organisation based in South Australia. It promotes peace for Palestine by hosting rallies, art events, apparel, and fashion pieces that support Palestinian artists living in Gaza and Israel.
Secretary Jeanie Lucas has been associated with the group since 2006. She moved into Palestinian activism after the conflict in Iraq. Like many, she and AFOPA use art and fashion to express their message.
“Art and artists have a centuries-old tradition of challenging the establishment and challenging war… people do want to display their political aspirations and ideas via fashion,” she said.
While AFOPA isn’t “modern fashion,” the store sells apparel. Its offerings range from T-shirts bearing the slogan “make hummus not walls” to “exquisite embroidered scarves.”
Lucas described witnessing young people taking up protests as very moving. The Keffiyeh is, for her, an immediate symbol that young people can grab and use as a token of their protest.
She then tears up, “It’s just been utterly inspiring.”
“Art and fashion reaches people and makes them curious and ask questions. It’s created a message for people in a way that they can access, and people have responded enormously… it’s to express their displeasure, their sympathies, their anger and desire to do something through their creative expression,” she vocalised.
Art is profoundly important to humankind. Whether it’s through music, fashion or stories, we are creative beings.
Fashion and art have always been political. Whether it is the traditional garments worn in Asheels performances, the Keffiyehs worn by protesters and students at university encampments or art and fashion pieces sold by organisations like AFOPA.
People are finding new creative modes of expression to grab people's attention to the ongoing crisis in Gaza. Fashion and art pieces worn by individuals or groups of activists carry strong messages of protest and unity.
These statements will always find a way to express solidarity, even when words can’t.
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