“We are influencing these bigger businesses to stop creating meaningless fast fashion and take a leaf out of our book.” Alessia Acquaro, Co-Founder of Observe Gallery.
Australians have an insatiable appetite for fashion. We are buying more clothes per capita than any other country in the world, resulting in 300,000 tonnes of clothing wasted annually. A report by the independent think tank, the Australia Institute, reveals that Australians have overtaken Americans as the biggest fashion consumers globally, purchasing an average of 56 items annually.
In a fashion market moving towards sustainability, such consumption habits raise pressing questions about the industry's future: how we purchase, who designs what and how they do it, and what happens to the clothes once they are no longer ‘on trend’.
Slow fashion is a movement that emphasises sustainability, ethical and local production, mindfulness in consumption and prioritising quality over quantity. It is the direct opposite of fast fashion, advocating for reduced waste, fair labour practices, and the use of eco-friendly materials.
Melbourne's 'slow' fashion scene stands as a beacon of sustainability and creativity. From Dibo Bodi’s meticulously crafted corsets to With Harper Lu’s distinctive floral prints and Blinc 1000’s handmade statement pieces, Melbourne's fashion has made a chic yet sustainable impact both in Australia and internationally.
Coming off the back of Australian Fashion Week, which showcased capsule wardrobes, patterned stockings, splashes of red, and innovative layering, the spotlight on sustainable, ethical fashion has never been brighter.
Social media platforms, like Instagram, have played a pivotal role in the rise of these homegrown labels which focus on sourcing unique and sustainable fashion pieces. These entrepreneurs prioritise curating a few timeless items for capsule wardrobes while supporting local manufacturers, in stark contrast to the fast fashion churn of larger brands, such as H&M and Zara. This approach champions sustainability and sets the stage for the future of fashion in Melbourne and beyond.
In an exclusive interview, four Melbourne fashion designers shared their stories. Below, we delve into the journeys of these homegrown entrepreneurs transforming the fashion scene.
Studio Vsprco
In the heart of Melbourne's vibrant fashion scene, mother-daughter duo, Tracy and Ilah Watson have emerged as trailblazers of ethical entrepreneurship with their brand, Studio Vsprco. Established in 2019, Studio Vsprco has demonstrated the profound impact that an emerging fashion label can have in nurturing community connections and forward fashion design, while always keeping sustainability at the forefront of their brand ethos.
For Ilah, Studio Vsprco emerged as an embodiment of her desire to channel her creativity while defying traditional career paths.
"I didn't want to dive into a job after relocating to Melbourne during my final years of high school," she explains.
Ilah began reworking vintage clothing, leveraging her sewing skills that had been instilled by her mother, Tracy. What started as a side hustle quickly evolved into a full-fledged brand, propelled by unexpected success during the COVID-19 pandemic.
“I sewed all the first four to five collections myself at home, with Mum to help me with the patterns. They were all made from surplus fabrics or remnant fabrics from Rathdowne fabrics in Melbourne.”
“We had a hoodie range go viral and we ended up bringing in about 10,000 units of loungewear, which was insane numbers for us compared to the 100 units we had been doing. Mum and I were working from 6 am to midnight, packing orders from the spare room of our house.”
At 23, Ilah has shaped Studio Vsprco into a unique brand, with its style bridging the barrier between, as she describes it, “a kaleidoscope of 90s inspired dainty comfort wear contrasting with everyday staples of a stylistic woman.”
Ilah draws inspiration from the iconic runways of the 90s and 2000s, particularly admiring the timeless elegance of Chanel, Miu Miu, and Chloè. She also finds creative energy from Marcelo Gaia, the designer behind Mirror Palais. For Ilah, finding inspiration is like a "sixth sense you can't switch off," whether it's noticing the colours of a house on a street or observing a cute outfit passing by.
Studio Vsprco foundations are deeply committed to sustainability and ethical integrity.
"I went into this wanting to focus on sustainability and establish an ethical, transparent brand, which has been the foundation of our journey.
“The bottom line is no brand can be sustainable. If you’re bringing new clothes into the world you can't be sustainable, but I think where you do have the option of a sustainable choice you have to take it.”
Studio Vsprco is walking their talk. They have established a pre-order system to avoid over-ordering. Faulty garments are fixed by a seamstress, sold at discounted prices or reworked. Studio Vsprco goes above and beyond to uphold a high standard of ethical clothing in all areas of business and design.
“We ensure all employees at our factories are being paid a liveable wage and are in clean working conditions and obviously aren’t being exploited.”
“We don’t let anything go to landfill and we don't throw anything out, even if they’re faulty.”
Studio Vsprco isn't just a fashion brand—it's a vibrant community. Through weekly Run Clubs and hosting tea parties for customers, Studio Vsprco embodies inclusivity and transparency, all while designing highly desirable clothing.
Looking towards the future, Studio Vsprco remains committed to shaping a more sustainable fashion landscape. From local manufacturing initiatives to global partnerships, Ilah and Tracy lead by example, proving that ethical fashion isn't merely a trend—it's the future.
Gotham
Gautam Kapoor founded the Melbourne-based label Gotham, a contemporary womenswear brand that embodies individuality and expression. It adeptly explores the interplay between masculinity and femininity through colour, silhouette, and print.
Gotham has firmly established itself within the slow fashion movement. The ethos of “conscious clothing made to order” is fundamental to the brand’s identity.
Gautam’s journey began with a seasonal internship as a design assistant to Mary Katrantzou in London. Upon returning to Melbourne, he completed his Honours in Fashion Design at RMIT University and then launched Gotham.
“I really began my fashion journey after seeing the work of John Galliano for Dior and Alexander McQueen.”
Gotham's design philosophy revolves around conceptual and innovative proportions. Gautam draws from historical references and periods, infusing them with dystopian sci-fi genres. Gautam’s creative process is deeply personal and research-driven.
“My collections centre around something I’m interested in at that moment, and it takes me down a rabbit hole of looking at images of the era and what was happening at the time.
“For example, in my previous collection, I heard about how, in the 80s, kids were obsessed with the game Dungeons & Dragons, which led me to look into a lot of the artwork in the books, which I collaged into my fantasy tank top series.”
Gautam also admires contemporary brands like Ottolinger, Y/Project, and Coperni for their boundary-pushing innovations; reflecting on and incorporating these influences when designing his thought-provoking fashion.
For Gautam, small fashion brands like Gotham are shaping Melbourne's fashion industry by defying the norms of mass production and focusing on storytelling and unique perspectives.
“Melbourne has a lot of cool underground labels that don’t stick to producing a mass collection for the sake of selling. Many labels have a story to tell and a quest to create a unique point of view through clothes. I’m really excited for the year ahead and to see what may come for all the labels here.
“This year, being recognised by the Melbourne Fashion Festival and being able to show in the emerging designers' category has really given us a boost in the belief that things are changing here.”
Looking ahead, Gautam envisions growth and international expansion for Gotham.
“I’m in the early stages of designing a new collection and can’t wait to see how it will evolve. I would like to see the brand grow with more stockists internationally and perhaps a pop-up in the future.”
In a fashion landscape often dominated by fast fashion, Gotham stands as a testament to the power of slow fashion—crafting its pieces with care, intention, and a deep connection to personal and historical narratives. Gautam’s journey and vision for Gotham reflect a broader movement towards sustainable and thoughtful fashion, resonating with consumers who value quality and meaning in their wardrobes.
Observe Gallery
Observe Gallery, founded in 2020 by siblings Massimo Acquaro and Alessia Acquaro, embodies the clean lines of the minimalist design culture. The brand is rooted in crafting timeless ready-to-wear pieces that merge gender fluidity, streetwear aesthetics, and classic tailoring.
“Layering timeless pieces together is something we base our brand off,” says Co-Founder Alessia.
To see and to observe is at the core of the brand; a focus on and appreciation of simplicity amidst life's complexities.
Observe Gallery's mission is clear: to curate high-quality, understated unisex apparel, offering a sophisticated interpretation of contemporary streetwear. All of this encompasses ideas of slow fashion.
“Our brand is slow fashion for a reason. We are slowly creating and curating collections that these bigger businesses aren’t.
“Instead of coming up with four to five drops a year, we small businesses are coming up with about two, because we create about six items per drop, which take a long time to design. So I think that could be influencing businesses to slow down and have a look at what people value.”
Observe Gallery began by selling hoodies and tracksuits during the COVID-19 pandemic. However, they’ve gradually evolved their brand to embody timeless silhouettes and layering, influenced by renowned brands like Ralph Lauren, Aimé Leon Dore, and A.P.C.
“We design trans-seasonally, so we are aligned with the international calendar.”
When asked about their stance on trends, Alessia emphasises their commitment to creating timeless pieces that transcend fleeting trends in favour of longevity and sustainability. They acknowledge drawing inspiration from trends but prioritise designing pieces that can be worn for years.
“We don't want to just create trendy products because that doesn’t sustain longevity. And we want longevity, even if it means taking longer to find our place on the map,” explains Alessia.
Yasmin The Label
21-year-old Samara Andrews embarked on her entrepreneurial journey three years ago when she launched Yasmin The Label, initially selling her handmade designs on Depop. Fast forward to today, Yasmin The Label features over 12k followers on Instagram, with notable influencers like Molly Cook and Annalise Kokoris ‘Nik Nok’ showcasing the designs.
Drawing inspiration from the vibrant hues of the South of France and the exotic allure of Morocco, Yasmin The Label specialises in transforming beautiful lace colours into stunning halter neck designs and flattering bikinis.
Having recently secured a studio lease, Samara has transitioned from working out of her parent's spare room to having her own dedicated workspace, marking a significant milestone in the brand's journey.
While Melbourne's dynamic fashion culture undeniably influences Yasmin The Label, it’s Samara’s love of travel that is embedded in her designs.
Social media has significantly boosted her brand's reach, with frequent features on Instagram’s Explore Page, TikTok’s For You Page, and endorsements from micro-influencers, resulting in expanded audience, increased sales, and greater brand recognition.
“Influencers are really expensive, but when they actually love your product they’ll buy it and promote it anyways, which has made a big difference for our brand.”
There's no denying that her signature is lace. Yasmin The Label’s lace designs are known for their bold colours, including vibrant oranges, rich purples, and pinks, all with textured details. Her bikinis feature added flair with subtle lace accents, emphasising her signature style focused on lace elements.
Samara understands that fashion is art. Each piece she creates captures the essence of modern femininity and sophistication, reflecting her commitment to slow fashion and timeless elegance.
Melbourne’s Sustainable Fashion Quartet
These four trailblazers are redefining Melbourne's fashion landscape, one garment at a time. And while these pieces may come at a higher price point, it’s a small price to pay for sustainable and vibrant fashion.
Australian Fashion Week highlighted that capsule wardrobe are the future, encouraging consumers to curate wardrobes with fewer, more durable pieces that last. Though this may require a higher initial investment, reducing trendy, short-lived items will balance the cost. Supporting emerging Melbourne-based brands and similar labels is an ideal way to begin.
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